Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Krishnadevaraya's Palace Hampi

During the last visit i had an unfinished agenda to locate Krishnadevaraya's palace.  Based on some clues i began my quest in the right earnest.  The ruins opposite to underground Shiva temple looks very much to be a palace, whether it belonged to Krishnadevaraya was a key question.  I recollected the Paes description that his palace was bound by huge boundary walls, whereas this place was quite barren, without boundary wall coverage, so it must been for a lesser known king of  Vijaynagar empire.

The secret chamber for meetings of the key personnel below is a mild clue for the location of  Krishnadevaraya's palace.  This spot obviously must be in the near vicinity of  his palace, but it is too much of a public place to locate his palace.  Most of the dusherra and other public functions were carried out in this premises.


Where can be palace located with the description and clues from the ASI my search became a long drawn process.  I firmly believe that the location is kept a secret for the fear of vandalism by treasure hunters.  It is quite but natural that even the ruined palace would not be spared it the location is revealed by ASI.  Maybe after the fortification is fully completed we may get to know the exact location of the palace officially.

Paes describes " This palace of the king is surrounded by a very strong wall like some of the others and encloses a greater space than all the castle of Lisbon "

" This is the best provided city in the world, and is stocked with provisions such as rice, wheat, grains, corn, and certain amount of barley and beans,moong, pulses, horse gram, and many other seeds which grow in this country, which are the food of the people, and there is large store of these and sold very cheap." Paes continues in his treatise.

One of the palaces are located in this Mahanavami dibba enclosure, but it cannot belong to Krishnadevaraya simply because it is too much of public place, for security angle it is ruled out.
" On every friday you have a fair ( santhe ) with many pigs and fowls and dried fish from the sea,and other produce of the countryside.  In this city you will find men belonging to every nation and people, and the many precious stones there, principally diamonds " Paes



This locale inside the zenana enclosure happens to house the queens palace and bathing pool, which is totally demolished. Can the location of the kings palace be far behind this secured enclosure which has four watch towers.


Lotus Mahal or the summer palace of the queen is located in the zenana enclosure too.
Ruined structure around the mosque does it imply soldiers quarters ?

 We have a close description of Krishnadevaraya's palace in this very location are the tourists heading towards the same, nope they are interested in the sculptures on the wall of  Hazar Rama temple.
 Behind the Hazaar Rama temple is very well enclosed with the boundary walls can this be leading to the description of the Paes that there was a temple nearby the kings palace.  This temple was considered to be private place of  worship for the royalty.
There is security watch tower in this enclosed boundary wall, can this be a certain clue for the Palace of  Krishnadevaraya.


Some of you might be interested in knowing  in detail History of Krishnadevaraya
 This ruined structure too has a semblance of a palace with huge enclosures can it be the palace which i am hunting for desperately, i don t think so.  It could be the palace of another king of Vijayanagar empire.

Vantage point to search for the kings palace

Noblemen's quarters

Another panaromic view of the Mohammadean centre, and the huge boundary wall enclosure.
To hunt down the location Krishnadevaraya's on the eve of  his  501 year of  his coronation was absolutely a  pleasure.

"The size of this city I do not write here, because it cannot all be seen from one spot, but i climbed a hill whence I could see a great part of it;.....what i saw from thence seemed to me as large as Rome, and very beautiful to the sight, .....in the gardens of the houses, and many conduits of water which flow into the midst of it, and in places there are lakes and the king has close to his palace a palmgrove and other rich fruit bear trees "

This video should give some clue to the exact location of Krishnadevaraya's palace, unless it is officially declared i am constrained not to reveal the exact location guys.  Of course the thrill of locating an important landmark in the annals of history will always be cherished by me.  On the hindsight i know that i have risked in revealing the location to a greater extent.  The signboard too reveals the name of another kings palace but does not specify Krishnadevaraya's Palace.  



ACK :  A Forgotton Empire by Robert Sewell

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Circuits around Hampi ...Museum

Robert Sewell wrote in his treatise A forgotton Empire " I have little doubt that before very long the whole history of southern india will be compiled by some writer gifted with the power making the dry bones live, but meanwhile the bones themselves must be collected and pieced together, and my duty has been to try and construct at least the main portions of the skeleton "


Before we enter Vijaya Vithal temple complex there are numerous monuments behind the famous complex.We got to explore them because the entry to the main complex was not opened.  It opens at 8 am.  So we decided to venture out and cover the monuments down the river bank, wherein Purandaradas complex was neck deep submerged in the raging waters of  Tungabhadra dam.  There is a caution notice on the banks do not enter the water for swimming, due to crocodiles infesting the waters.  Boating was stopped due heavy inflow of water.  So went our hopes of reaching the other side of the river to Anegundi.


Suddenly the pack of striding horses reminded us of the royalty in the ancient days, particularly Krishnadevaraya who used to be active early morning exercising with gingelly oil anointed on his body to keep himself battle fit.  These wild looking horses, i believe are bred by a gypsy community who keep moving around from place to place. This info was given by the owner of tea stalls son.  

The entire Vittala Complex and surroundings are in various stages of resurrection.  These phases are explained in the notice board installed by the Hampi heritage committee.  


The ticket counter was yet to be opened at around 8.15 am
The bazaar which is being resurrected.  I believe the diamonds and other valuables were sold in these very complexes, which is the biggest ever in Hampi.  It even overshadows the Virupaksha bazaar.

One can witness a collapsed pillar stationed at the entrance of the Vittala Complex along with bazaar.

Temple under renovation

A view of the huge pushkari across the Kudregombe temple complex 

Pillars at the Museum
Pattabhirama temple complex is located just beyond the ASI museum ( 500 meters )  in Kamalapura.  This complex is almost in the final stages of renovation as it were.  The temple is not as grand as the Vittala complex, but the proportion of construction reveals the intent.

The temple was also known as Varadadevi Ammana Pette.  Varadadevi incidentally happened to be queen of  Achyuta Deva Raya.(  1529 - 1542 ) who succeeded Krishnadevaraya who died under mysterious circumstances in 1529 AD at middle age of just 42 years Read for further details  :                                   Tribute to Krishnadevaraya


The frontal portion the temple is propped up by multiple pillars.  Yali images are carved on the pillars.

Even though the carving on the pillars are not so ornate, it does display the grandeur of the Vijaynagar Era.

The frontal gopuram is almost intact, which is East facing.

The musical pillars below are  inequivalent to Vittala complex musical pillars.

One gets to see images of foreign travellers visiting the Vijaynagar empire

The entrance to the temple is beautifully landscaped by ASI

ASI museum entrance

Snake Goddess @ ASI museum


Ack : Hampi360.com


LOCATION :  Hampi museum is located near Kamalapura circle, just 200 metres ahead on the right. The entry fee for the museum is Rs 10 per head, and is sure to find lot of  historical books of interest published by ASI.   It is a centre point for covering the ruins of  hampi.  A little further ahead we find the KSTDC hotel and Vaishali Resort is just before the circle.





Circuits around Hampi.....Fortifications

Hampi ruins are spread over 26 square kms, but the original bastion of the empire was spread across 40 sq kms.  In order to protect the city from invaders, the successive Vijaynagar empire fortified the city with 7 tier  protection.  The outer circle consisted of wall circulating the boundary, the inner ramparts were protecting the important monuments such temples, public function place, such as Mahanavami dibba, public bath, reservoirs,  etc.  Finally the palaces of the kings and queens of  the ruling dynasty.


The capital city spread from Kampli to the north to Hospet in the south, Anegundi in the west to Kamalapura in the east.  Bhima's gate formed an important gateway in the eastern portion.  Here one can find the statue of  Bhima in his battle attire, probably it served as a training centre for the soldiers to emulate the legendary Bhima.  The statue of  Bhima below signifies killing of the demon Kichaka.  Another statue on the wall depicts Draupadi tying her hair after Bhima slays the demon.


The southern most fortification stretched 3 kms towards Hospet City, and the inner layer covered the boundaries of the capital city Hampi, and finally the core area was fortified which is best preserved.

One can witness the effort of the ASI to reconstruct the fortification with the numbering of the stones on the wall if one has a close look at the picture below C13,14,15, D14,15,16 E8,9,10 are clear markings on the granite walls.  The colour of the stone is giveaway when compared to pale colour of  granite, eventually it is bound to match the old stone colour due to constant exposure to nature.

The fourth and fifth line of fortification covered the villages of Malappanagude from Hospet to Hampi.  The sixth fortification encircled the villages of Kamalapuram.  Finally the seventh fortification covered the main city of  Hampi consisting of  Virupaksha Temple, Hemkunta Hill, Royal Enclosure and Sacred Centre along with Noble men quarters.  

The fortification around the Hemkunta hill is under construction with a passage way.


The ancient means of transport in a bullock cart still persists in the villages of  Hampi


Domed gateway, Bhima's gateway and lastly the Talaharighat gateway are the primary gateways leading into Hampi


Boundary of the fortress seen near the purandara mantap, apparently built to prevent water from Tungabhadra river entering the Vithala complex
Watch tower in the zenana enclosure

Security point in the royal palace


Viewpoint of the Mosque and the royal centre seen from a vantage point of  Noblemens quarters
Sheeps grazing on the Badavi linga precints of the boundary wall
Overview of the Hemkunta hillock
Model of the capital Vijaynagar Empire ACK : ASI Museum



avinash

avinash
cannons ready to fire

About Me

My photo
Bangalore, Karnataka, India
Basically i am down to earth, take friendship to its logical end. It is my endeavour to create a wealth of co-operative ventures. Basically being a marketing man i have the acumen to spot winners. I am privileged to travel the length and breadth of the country, courtsey my father, who was with Indianoil, my employers such as Nutrine, Kurl-on, Hindustan Pencils, Prestige, Crystal, Bell Ceramics, Pentel, Sezal, Commander. Currently i am involved in Tourism, Booking Air Tickets, Agent for Jungle Lodges and Resorts Limited and Taj Group of Hotels and a numerous hotels across India. Depending on the needs of a traveller i would recommend the destination and accommodation best suited to their budget. Humour takes me on. Let us have a win win situation for all. I love travelling for sake of adventure, photography and discovering the heritage. Life is a journey and let us enjoy our drive. Come share your travel experience on indiabackpacker.