Saturday, December 28, 2013

Fort Aguada Bem Vindo, Goa

Bem Vindo in Portuguese means Welcome to Fort Aguada !
Aguada means spring in Portuguese, which is source of pure drinking water.  The landscape on the northern most mouth of the river Mondovi formed a strategic point to build a fortress which is partitioned into a double decker.  The upper deck consisted of water tank which contained a large reserve of 23,76,000 gallons of water and a light house.  The potable water was source of livelihood for the soldiers and traders visiting Goa from foreign lands.  They used to refill their tankers with water and proceed further down south towards Calicut and Kochi. 

The lighthouse was built in such a fashion that it used to emit signal to the ships every 7 minutes, which was later timed to 30 seconds.  It is four storied conical shaped building which happened to be largest in Asia in Olden times. 



The lower deck consisted of a fortress with berthing facility for ships and a Watch tower stretching upto to the Arabian Sea.  Currently the beach and the lower deck belongs to Taj group of hotels which has built a heritage property with a swimming pool and luxurious rooms for tourists to stay comfortably.
The fort consisted of a moat surrounded with water to protect from invasion by the enemies, it was filled with crocs to scare away the invaders from attempting to scale the fortress.  The Marathas were known for their guerilla warfare against which the Portuguese had to take plenty of precautions.

The primary reason for building Fort Aguada was to enhance the security of Goa against the frequent naval strikes by Marathas, Dutch and Ottomon empire.  Everybody were keen to extract their piece of cake from the trading opportunities of spices, gems & diamonds, muslin and other forest produce in the konkan belt.  The Arabs used to earlier import horses, perfumes, etc into India to be sold to local kings and Vijaynagar empire.  This demand was being fulfilled by the Portuguese.  The Portuguese traders were clever to switch and sell diamonds to the world referring it to as Indian Diamond.  The diamonds mined from the Vijayanagar empire were the best in its grade which is unmatched probably even today. 
The fortress was constructed during the Viceroy Rui Lourenco De Tavaro ( 1609 – 1612 )  and inaugurated during rule of D Jeronimo De Azevedo ( 1612 – 1617 ) as a reinforcement to the already existing fortress inside the Mandovi river bed.  This fortress is almost built in square shaped formation with turrets and watch tower manning the fortress.  The firepower unleashed from this fortress would have caused unimaginable damage to the enemy lines on the sea front as well as land.

Aguada too seems to have been chiselled out of a hillock and built with laterite stones which was naturally occurring on the landscaped.  The local masonaries were used who were adapt at construction, with the architecture planned by the Portuguese.

Just a few meters away from the Aguada fortress exists a Church with statue of Jesus in a redeemer fashion beckoning the disciples to come into his fold.  This Church has an excellent view point to give a panoramic view of the Aguada fortress and its hillock.  Below one can find the prisoners barracks, which is used even today as a Central prison.  The prison is heavily guarded, and tourists are not permitted to enter the premise.  Many a tourist are carried away by the notice board which mentions only Tuesday and Friday entry is allowed outside the prison gate. 

Enroute if one finds time one can visit the Dolphin Jetty, which is advisable than the Coco Bridge because the traffic snarl and parking will be time consuming.  On this jetty one can find parking by the sides and quick getaway.  Also one can spot Kingfisher pvt. Jetty, Kashmir Emporium and plenty of food joints catering to tourists across the world enroute to Calangute beach. 


The legacy of Fort Aguada is far reaching considering its strategic location, there is even a helipad located for the VIPs and Navy personnel to land and survey the area.  One can see some lovely private properties located in vantage points.  Overall Aguada is a must in every tourist Iterneary for Goa, but care should be taken so as to overspeed the roads are narrow and cows crossing the road can cause accident, better to visit in the early mornings, since it opens at 8.30 am, carry an umbrella which can give better protection, even during winter times, it is hot as oven.  Apply Sun screen is advisable and carrying plenty of water, one can get dehydrated.
Thank you Portuguese ( Obrigado )for leaving behind a wonderful legacy to be enjoyed free of entry cost, we forgive you for over staying beyond the mandated period of Aug 1947.  Adeus ( Goodbye in portuguese )

Friday, December 27, 2013

Fort Reis Magos Restored Bardez Goa

Ries Magos Means three wise men in Portuguese, maybe it was designed and executed by three wise men, originally signifying the architect, viceroy and the King.  The credit should obviously go to Adil Shah, Almeida and Albuquerque too.  Originally there may have been an ancient hindu temple from the era of Kadamba dynasty...........






Prologue :  Fortune favours the brave how true this statement is we realised on hindsight.  We were guided to an extent by Francis of Angel Resort, but we almost were misguided and met with a major accident.  But after visiting Reis Magos we realised it was worth the trouble of hunting it down literally after 2 hours........
 
Portuguese were in fact lucky to establish their empire in Goa due to the patronage of Vijaynagar feudatory Timayya.   Adil Shahs was literally driven out of Goa after reign of nearly 2 decades.  Krishnadevaraya too had just ascended the throne ( 1509 ) when Albuquerque with his Armada attacked and drove out the Adil Shahs of Bijapur on Dec 1510.  Initially they sought the support of the local Hindu populace,  Timayya’s ambition to control the territory fell on his face when Afonso Albuquerque stayed put by occupying the queens palace ( now old secretariat ) on the banks of river Mandovi. 



Albuquerque occupied Adil Shah’s Fortress on the south Bank of river Mandovi.  It was a strategic decision to have Fortress on the northern Banks of the river Mandovi probably due to constant attacks by Dutch, Moors and Arabs with changing style of  Warfare.  Reis Magos was built during the Viceroyalty of Afonso Noronha ( 1551-1554 ).  The Fort was constructed with a perennial source of water  with a spring providing the required quantity for sustaining the entire garrison of the Portuguese armada. 


Fort Reis Magos was literally chiselled into a Hillock with laterite stones providing the building material.  This fort was an extension of an outpost created Adil Shah in 1493 and later expanded by Albuquerque ( 1509 – 1515 ).  The Fort consists of  6 Gunloops located inside the basement of the Fortress.  It has a strategic Dual Cannon firing watch towers facing the South and East.  There are literally 6 firing spots covering 180 degrees into the backwaters of the Mandovi River. 

Barracks were constructed along the river beds for the soldiers and their families.  Slowly the extension was built in the form of a church for the Portuguese army for retaining their religious identity.  Two steep stair connected the Fortress in its original Format along with a side railing towards the church leading to the Fortress.   This was used by the horse astride higher ranking officials of the Portuguese.  A strategic view point was created for the generals to guide their soldiers in case of vicious attacks on the fortress. Probably once in a while the viceroys used it as their residence during extreme summer months due to cool breeze providing relief at the peak.




There are literally two main buildings housing the soldiers and their officers on the Fortress premises along with a small barracks.  The fortress has Watch towers facing all directions literally. Cannons were placed at cylindrical vantage turrets to fire their salvos against the invaders. The Portuguese flag donned the Fortress precincts.




There are graveyards on both the sides of the fortress which seems to be have largely vanished in due course of time. During Viceroy De Mello Castro (1707) extensive changes were incorporated to Reis Magos which was enabled the fortress to fire from 33 cylinders literally on the enemies.  This enabled the fortress to withstand the guerrilla type of warfare by the Marathas in 1739.  However they made dent in the defence of the Portuguese by occupying some portion of Goa.  In 1741 Marquis De Lourical was able to repulse the Bhonsle threat who retreated to Pernem and borders of Sawantwadi. 








Location :The Fortress is located is Verem, Bardez, which has two approaches from the Mondovi bridge from Panjim towards Calangute . Take the immediate left turn and keep going till you reach a left turning towards cocoa bridge.  One has to keep checking the route till one approaches the Francis Asissi Church which has a small cross as a landmark.  Keep towards the left till 2 kms further down and cross the Kings Resort leading towards the Ries Magos.  One can be easily mislead or misguided by locals when you ask for a Fort they will guide you Fort Aguada, some may guide you towards Cocoa Bridge which is actually Dolphin view point. This has a narrow road and it is jam packed one can end up wasting precious 2 hours in parking and finding way back.  Note : Fort Reis Magos is Closed on Mondays Open 11 am to Sunset.

Reis Magos was converted to a mini jail after the naval attacks from Dutch and Ottoman empire decreased.  In 1798 the British occupied the fortress along with a treaty with Portuguese after defeating them at Sadshivghad.  After India gained Independence in 1947, rebellion started cropping up various forms in Goa.  Freedom fighters were jailed in this fortress.  Finally Goa was liberated in Dec 1961, whereas Fort Reis Magos continued to function as jail till 1993.  A number of modification seems to have been undertaken keeping the prison requirements till nature took its toll due to the ageing of the building.  Once it was abandoned as a prison the entire structure fell into a state of ruins. 
Reis Magos was converted to a mini jail after the naval attacks from Dutch and Ottoman empire decreased.  In 1798 the British occupied the fortress along with a treaty with Portuguese after defeating them at Sadshivghad.  After India gained Independence in 1947, rebellion started cropping up various forms in Goa.  Freedom fighters were jailed in this fortress.  Finally Goa was liberated in Dec 1961, whereas Fort Reis Magos continued to function as jail till 1993.  A number of modification seems to have been undertaken keeping the prison requirements till nature took its toll due to the ageing of the building.  Once it was abandoned as a prison the entire structure fell into a state of ruins. 



Link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQLytMDchwQ


Sketches from the famous goan artist Mario Mirado

Freak Baniyan tree on the ramparts of the Fort was basically a parasite to coconut tree

Ack :  Literature from Reis Magos exhibits, Pamplet, Website, Wiki and some original linkage of events

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Kambala at Padapanambur

Padapanambur Kambala

Just as the Christmas approaches Kambala begins at Padapanambur with Seemantha Arasu adorning the throne in precincts of his Basadi.  This annual Buffaloes race is a popular event in the coastal region of Karnataka.  Among them Kadri, Moodabidri, Karkala and Padapanambur are famous.  The lush green fields, with plenty of farmers and rural folks flock the paddy field to witness the annual event. The race has become a popular sport among the coastal citizen.

Buffaloes are decked up for the race


Photographers delight to capture the race

Spectators taking up vantage position at the Kambala stadium

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The race is generally conducted between two pairs of buffaloes running parallel on a paddy track with barricades so that they don t criss cross and injure themselves.  The slushy and muddy tracks are filled with water to enhance the effect of the racing.   The track length can vary between 150 to 200 meters.  Generally the race is covered within 20 seconds.  The winning pair of buffaloes and its owner are generally rewarded with a trophy and a citation.  Earlier times generally they were rewarded with Coconuts and Shawl as a recognition.  Nowerdays in some places unofficial betting too takes place. 

Pairs of  Buffaloes awaiting their turn

Race has just began

Check out the muddy slush











Wednesday, May 15, 2013

One picture from my photo album Contest

This picture is nostalgic because we spotted this lovely picnic spot on the highway from Kodaganallur to Kochi.  It was a KTDC resort from wherein the houseboat ride was being offered.  We just made a stopover amidst the drizzle and my friend captured the essence of nature along with the houseboat.  

This photo was shot on Cannon with Kodak roll almost a decade ago, the date is slightly visible on the photograph.  This photo is uploaded for the contest One picture from my photo album contest.

avinash

avinash
cannons ready to fire

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Basically i am down to earth, take friendship to its logical end. It is my endeavour to create a wealth of co-operative ventures. Basically being a marketing man i have the acumen to spot winners. I am privileged to travel the length and breadth of the country, courtsey my father, who was with Indianoil, my employers such as Nutrine, Kurl-on, Hindustan Pencils, Prestige, Crystal, Bell Ceramics, Pentel, Sezal, Commander. Currently i am involved in Tourism, Booking Air Tickets, Agent for Jungle Lodges and Resorts Limited and Taj Group of Hotels and a numerous hotels across India. Depending on the needs of a traveller i would recommend the destination and accommodation best suited to their budget. Humour takes me on. Let us have a win win situation for all. I love travelling for sake of adventure, photography and discovering the heritage. Life is a journey and let us enjoy our drive. Come share your travel experience on indiabackpacker.