Se Cathedral Old Goa

Prologue :After Augustine Tower ( church complex ) Se Cathedral happens to virtually the largest church in Goa, and probably in Asia too during ancient times.  This place being so close to Adil Shah’s palace we can assume that a mosque or mausoleum existed in this place, which was razed to ground.  In its place St Paul Church, St Francis Assisi Church and Se Cathedral was built.

Among the group of churches Se Cathedral is the largest existing churches in Old Goa.  It was commissioned according to the inscriptions in Latin in 1562.  The Cathedral construction was ordered by King Dom Sebastiao ( 1557 – 1578 ).  The construction was sponsored by the Royal treasury, with generation of revenue from the sale proceeds of vast stretches of property and treasures salavaged. 

The Church measured 115 feet high 250 feet in length x 180 feet in width at the time of construction.  It was built on raised plinth with laterite stones.  It was plastered with limestone and painted white signifying purity.  There were 8 chapels besides the main alter.  Additional prayer slots were created for the saints.  The bell tower is located on the southern tower.  The bell transfixed on the tower was referred to as the Golden Bell on account of its resounding tone, which are immortalised in poems and carols. 

The vault and the choir were supported by massive pillars.  The building is oblong, and has cruciform interior.  It can be termed as a mixture of Portuguese & Gothic style on the exterior facade.  There is a tinge of Tuscan and Corinthian inside.  The northern tower collapsed in 1776 and it was not rebuilt.

On the left hand side of the Cathedral there are four chapels which are dedicated to our Lady of Virtues, Saint Sebastian, The blessed Sacrament and our Lady of Life.  On to the right hand side again four chapels exists which are dedicated to Saint Bernard,Saint Anthony, The Holy Ghost and Cross of Miracles.  There are three alters on each side of the main alter.  The alter is decorated with paintings from the lives of the saints.

The main alter is dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, which is richly gilded in panel form, depicting martyrdom of the saints.  There are statues of St Peter and Paul.  There are seats of throne for the Archbishop.  There are paintings of St Catherine in various ceremonial robes depicting her lifestyle in general. 

The church was under construction for nearly  90 years beginning from 1562.  The main church complex was completed in 1619.  The alters were completed in 1652.  The Portuguese govt sponsored the construction for the Dominicans. 

Conservation :  Massive conservation efforts were undertaken by ASI to ensure that the complex did not collapse like the Augustine Church.  The basic fault in the design of the structure was rectified which may be owing to the southern tower collapsing and upsetting the balance of the structure.  Fresh laterite stones were used in rebuilding the weak portions of the structure, using replastered lime mortar mixed with acrylic resin ( nafafil ) The windows were replaced due to prolonged exposure to rain and humidity.  The decayed wooden beams, rafters and ceiling planks were replaced.  The plastered and reinforced walls were white washed as per the original standards.  Teak wood door and windows were re moulded in the residential complex of the church. 

The exposed iron rods were given protective paint coating to prevent rusting.  Further the wooden ceiling on northern and southern aisles were replaced.  The plaster on the wall were re applied.  The exterior walls were painted with waterproof cement paint.  The retaining wall was rebuilt which had decomposed due to vegetation over growth. 

World Heritage :

The work of ASI is ongoing to maintain the complex.  Thanks to their timely attention many a disasters and short circuits have been averted.  In order to maintain the world heritage status it is essential keep the entire complex clean and updated from the rigours of heavy monsoon.  In 1986 the churches of Old Goa have been accorded the world heritage status, which has helped in funding the cost involved to maintain the heritage structures.

Ack :  Outlook Traveller guide, World Heritage Series publication by ASI.

World Class ASI Museum at Old Goa

Prologue : We were hunting for the Goa state Museum, we were mislead to Science Museum situated besides Miramar beach, than we were directed towards Pattao, ultimately we gave up and proceeded to discover the ASI museum at Old Goa.  Vehicle can be parked just by the side road and one can enter the complex of Churches starting with ASI museum.

An Archaeological Museum was established in 1964, which was later re-organised in 1981-82.  This was undertaken for the CHOGM Retreat in Goa in 1982.  Currently it is renovated into a world class museum with air conditioned inside, and pleasing lighting effects.  A slew of surveillance cameras are fitted so that no damage is caused by vandalism covering all angles of the museum.

The highlight of this museum is the huge life size portraits of the governors and viceroys during the reign of Portuguese in a huge hall situated on the first floor.  The widened staircase was newly laid for visitors to avoid a melee. 

A new annexe building was constructed to provide additional space to house all the artefacts and collections.  The flooring was relaid with teakwood to match with the original building and bring in uniformity.  ASI has done tremendous amount of work, which is on going to maintain all the monuments in Old Goa. 

Afonso de Albuquerque’s 3.6 meter bronze statue greets the visitors at the museum entrance, unfortunately photography is not allowed inside the museum.  The entrance fee for Indian visitors is Rs 10/ per head and foreigners is $ 5.  The Museum is open on all days except Friday it is closed and timings are 10 am to 5 pm.  It takes at least 2 hours to properly have a look at various exhibits in an AC environs.  The attendant told us to keep in mind 4.30, 5.00, 5.30 & 6.00 pm in mind in order of closure of monuments for visitors. 

There maps of sea routes used by Portuguese merchants, St Xaviers travel path and drawings of Old Goa in 1509.  Another statue of Afonso De Albuquerque adorns the museum.  The plan of the museum is also displayed.

The first gallery consists of Palaeolithic stones tools and Neolithic celts and short history on pre historic sites are displayed in the map of goa.  The second showcase contains artefacts from Chandor with copper nails, rings etc from 3 BC onwards.  The Hindu sculptures were collected from surroundings of Old Goa Church area which suggests the presence of temples prior to Portuguese occupation, whether they were razed to ground by Adil Shah dynasty or Portuguese is a matter of conjecture.

The most important statue discovered is the statue of Vishnu, with an arched hallow containing 10 avataars of Vishnu.  He is accompanied by consorts in the form Garuda and Lakshmi.  Other objects on display are the Hero stones, Sati stones and a slab containing inscriptions of Devaraya’s grant to Jain Basadis.  Arabic and Portuguese Inscriptions  too are displayed.  The tombstone of Diogo De Noronha who was captain of Daman is displayed.  The hero stone exhibits reveals a Kadamba king seated on his throne surrounded by queen and attendants.  The bottom panel displays his skills on naval battle with ships.

Themain attraction is the basement hall is the towering statue Luiz De Camoes ( 1524-1580) who was the national poet of Portugal.  He is shown majestically holding scrolls of his poem.  The one eyed poet is literally dressed in battle armour minus the sword.  This statue was originally installed in the centre of garden in 1960, which was vandalised in 1980 or during emergency times i presume looking for hidden gems and jewellery.  In 1982 it was re located into the museum premises, now it is the star attraction.  

In the third gallery Mahishasuramardini of the seventh century AD dating back to Chalukyan reign.  There are other statues of seated Ganesha, Uma Maheswari, Vetala images, Kala Bhairava, Torso of a warrior and Shiv Lingas.  The show case also displays head of Bramha, Nandi and Kula Devata.

A Model of 16^th century Portuguese Ship and Iron anchors are on display in the adjoining room.  In 4^th Gallery mideval hero stones and sati stones are displayed.  The 5^th gallery traces inscriptions of Adil Shah, Marathas and records of grants to Hindu temples.  A masjid was probably located next to the Adil Shah Palace.   

A life sized statue of St Catherina is displayed under a goan pillared shed.  The courtyard has been landscaped with lawns and pathways with grills. 

 

Once we reach the first floor the portraits of most governors and viceroys of Goa are on display.  A comprehensive list is displayed on a board on hung on the western hall.  1505 TO 1961.  We find familiar names such as Menzes, Naronha, De Silva, Almieda, etc which are currently adopted as family surnames by Goans.  Viceroy Dom Joao De Castro ( 1545 – 1548 ) initiated the legacy of painting his own portrait along with twelve of his predecessors.  This practise became a precedent for all others to follow till liberation of Goa in 1961.  These paintings were originally decorating the walls of mansions in which viceroys resided, which were later shifted to Secretariat in Panjim and ultimately in 1962 it was thrown open for public viewing.  These portraits reveal the evolution of style, costumes, hairstyle prevailing in Europe. 

One can find display of Postal stamps, Court fee stamps, Maps of Goa, along with imported tiles used to decorate the facade of churches and floors of the alter.  There is one showcase displaying various currencies coins in silver, copper, lead and brass.  Afonso Albuquerque ordered the minting of coins in 1510.  The major denominations were Portuguese Manoel, Leal and Pardav, Tanga, Xerafins and lastly Rupia.  Most of the coins contained cross and figure of queen and year of minting on the reverse.   The currencies valued at 10, 20, 30, 50, 60, 100, 300, 500, 600 & 1000 in Escudos and Rupias are displayed.  There is a portrait of Dr Salazar, PM of Portugal during liberation of Goa on 19^th Dec 1961, are also on display.  A model of fort Diu with six cannons are displayed outside the museum. 

The museum has a stall selling publications by ASI which are reasonably priced and sold on discounts too for want of takers.  A video show is also organised on world heritage sites and some space is provided for children to play around.  Overall the visit to this museum one discovers the rich collection of artefacts, statues, paintings and inscriptions taking us down the memory lane of Goan Heritage.

Bom Jesus Bascilica Beckons

Prologue :  This is most important Church in Goa considering its antiquity and importance.  It houses the well preserved body of St Francis Xavier, who is considered to be Goa’s patron saint. In my eagerness i casually enquired with one of the church supervisors regarding St Francis Xavier’s body exposition hurray it came as surprise that exposition is due in 2014 since it was exposed to public in 2004 last.  Maybe it calls for one more trip to Goa for many of us....

Bom Jesus Church is dedicated to Infant Jesus and we were privileged to visit the same on Christmas eve, what a coincidence.  This Church was elevated to the status of Bascilica in 1946.  The design of this church was supposed to be inspired from St Paul’s Church which is destroyed now.

The church was contructed by two priests, modelled on Italian renaissance style called Baroque.  Diogo De Borba collaborated with Minguel Vaz to build this magnificient edifice in 1541.  Next to the Bascilica Professed house for the Jesuits was bilt in 1589.

The three storied Bascilica is built with carved basalt embellishments.  The columns and corridors are fashioned in true renaissance style.  A carved basalt medallion depicts emblem of Society of Jesus on the top.  The facade is fashioned in Baroque style of architecture.  The main alter has a statue of St Ignatius Loyala, founder of the society of Jesus.  One can find a small statue of Infant Jesus below being patron of the Church. 

St Francis Xavier : ( 7^th April 1506 – 3^rd December 1552 ) The Saint was born in Javier, which is now part of Spain.  He was co-founder of Jesuits along with Ignatius Loyala, who took his vow in 1534 at Paris.  He was born in an aristocratic family, but due to constant war in Europe he was dragged into the feud.  His father died in 1515, he along with his brothers fought a futile battle of survival, in 1522 their castle was captured by the Spanish invaders.  He was fed up of the constant feud and later left to France for studies in 1525.  In 1530 he received a masters degree in Arts at College Sainte-Barbe in Paris.  He started teaching philosophy of Aristotle at Beauvais College, where he met Ignatius and became his constant companion.  Just when he was heading towards academic excellence he turned towards missionary life.  He was influenced by Ignatius uttering “ what will profit a man to gain the whole world, and lose his own soul”

On 15^th August 1934, together with Ignatius and five other Jesuits they established the Society of Jesus in a Chapel at Montmarte.  They took a vow of Chastity,Poverty and Obedience.  They went to Venice to get ordained into priesthood in 1537.  He left on his mission of counter reformation in 1540 along with a book written by a Croatian Humanist Marko Marulic  De Institutione Bene Vivendi   

He was summoned the Portuguese King John III to Portugal to ensure that his subjects abroad do not stray away from Christianity due to liberal atmosphere prevailing in the Indian sub continent.  He sailed along with Viceroy Afonso De Sousa on board Santiago on 7^th April 1541 from Lisbon to Muragoa. 

Francis Xavier discovered that many of the Portuguese were influenced by ambition, revenge, avarice and debauchery.  They ignored the tenets of Christianity and started ill treating the local populace with their arrogant behaviour.   He found that concubinage was openly practised by Europeans in general with seduction of natives.  During this period i have a sneaking suspicion that Siesta and Fiesta culture slowly started creeping into Goa.

He slowly started his saintly work of attending to patients in the hospitals and prison in the morning times.  Later in the afternoon he used to assemble the children and servants to preach morals and tenants of Christianity.  He was invited to St Paul’s College to lecture to priests in the seminary.  Thus began his slow process of reformation in Goa. 

Xavier set sail to Cape Comorin in Oct 1542, to reform the natives who had been baptized a decade earlier.  He was unable to convince the high caste Brahmins to reform.  He spent three years in south India in converting and spreading the tenets to natives.  His effort was hampered by the Portuguese soldiers who were short tempered and ill mannered.  He visited St Thomas Mount at Mylapore.  From there he travelled eastward in 1545 towards Indonesia, In 1547 at Malacca he met a Japanese named Anjiro, who helped him in spreading Christianity in Japan with the help of his translation. He became the first Christian who adopted the name Paulo De Santa Fe.

In 1548, he returned to Goa, to fulfil his responsibility and created a administrative infrastructure of the Church.  Once again in April 1549 he set sail for Malacca and Japan.  He wrote to his companion “ All the Portuguese merchants coming from Japan tell me, if I go there i shall do great service for God our Lord, more than pagans of India”

On 27^th July 1549 he reached the shores of Japan, but was refrained from entering its territory until 15^th August.  Shimazu Takahisa ( 1514-1571) gave a friendly reception to Francis on 29^th September but forbade conversion of locals into Christianity next year under death penalty threat. 

Francis ultimately found that the tenets of poverty, chastity and simplicity did not appeal to the locals or royalty of Japan.  Further the language barrier proved to be a stumbling block for him to preach.  The middle path of Buddhism was firmly entrenched in Japan, even though Francis tried to convince the path of Jesus by using different methods. 

He set sail for China which was one of his main target in 1552 on Santa Cruz, he struck a deal with a Chinese man for large sum of money to take him to the mainland China.  Unfortunately he died on 3^rd December 1552 due to viral fever. 

His body was first buried in the beach of Shangchuan Isle, later his body was exhumed in Feb 1553 was temporarily buried in St Paul’s Church in Portuguese Malacca on 22^nd March 1553.  Ferriera came from Goa and shipped the body of  Francis Xavier on 11^th Dec 1553 to Goa.  The body is finally resting Bascilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa, wherein his body is placed in glassed coffin embedded with silver casket. 

Overall Francis Xavier was a patron saint of Christianity, he helped to spread the religion across S East Asia.  But his zeal to convert seems to be controversial since he recommended Inquistion to ensure conversion which commenced after 8 years of his death in 1560.  He managed to reform the Portuguese to an extent and convince the natives willingly to adopt Christianity.  Some of the writings of the Saint are disturbing and I am refraining from penning the same in the interest of maintaining communal harmony.  My history Professor Rao was highly critical of Francis Xavier stopping short of considering him as Satan, but history testifies that during his tenure Inquistion did not begin absolving him of misdeeds during Inquistion.  Let his body rest in peace in the Bascilica. Abrigado.               

 

Controversy surrounding the preserved dead body :  

Controversy surrounds the body of encased St Francis Xavier at Bom Jesus Bascilica.  It is alleged that the captain of the Portuguese ship was infuriated by the stink emanated from the corpse of  Xavier after being dead drunk, he ordered it to be thrown in the Indian Ocean.  Once he came out of the  hangover, he realised his blunder and wanted to repent for his grave sin.  A Buddhist Monks body who died in Sri Lanka, due to herbal poisoning, was switched.  Inorder to camouflage the Asian Skin the body was dipped in Limestone and Salt to preserve the body.  The descendents of the monk have been claiming the body to worship the saint whose body is still in pristine condition despite decades.  They are calling for DNA test which would comprehensively prove its gensis.  The Vatican church has opposed the symbolic move as heretic claim.  But the fact remains that a tall European can hardly be substituted with short Asian.  However the spirit of  the Saint needs to be respected and honoured rather than falsehood perpetuated for the soul is everlasting than its body.  The cannonisation of the saint took place in 1622.  May his soul rest in peace.

Epilogue : To fine tune a travelogue filled with history wherein a minority perpetuates a genocide and to strike a diplomatic balance with perspective is a difficult task, i think i have done justice......Guys if you all think that i have committed a blunder or propagated falsehood please let me know, after all we are subject to correction.

Ack : Outlook traveller, Wikipedia, Mangalorean.com, Ajit Vadakayil Blogspot & Original surmise.

Augustine Tower stands tall for over 400 years

Prologue :  We had read about this Augustine tower and seen the locales in Bollywood movies, i was just wonder where to locate this monument.  Once we went through the guide book we located it is situated in Old Goa, but where exactly was the point.  We kept enquiring and landed into another ancient Church St Marys and from the hillock we were able to pin point the exact location of Augustine tower.  And rest they say it is history.  The lovely ruins is now preserved by ASI as part of world heritage conservation. 

This spectacular Augustine Church was built in 1602 as an extension for a small convent on the holy hill.  The Friars of Augustine arrived in Old Goa in 1572 and built a convent consisting of three storeys, with staircases leading to the upper storeys.  They were basically a small prayer room and an infirmary and guest house for the priests to reside. 

Augustine Church :  The Augustine Church was built as extension of the Chapel which was already existing besides the Church.  The 46 meter church with two towers and a citadel was conceived to spread the Augustine order in Goa.  The five storeyed building had three entrance archways, the main one was the ceremonial entry.

The church is built out of laterite stone with limestone as the bonding factor.  The church consisted of huge vault  had hiccups while erecting into the building.  It is supposed to have collapsed twice during construction.  The architect finally succeeded and to reconfirm he asked his son to stand below the vault when cannon was fired at the same to test the stability of the structure.  Finally it passed the litmus test for stability.  It was a wonderful engineering marvel considering 46 meters high tower with a huge bell donning the citadel.

There were 5 bays on each side of the tower, four storeys with main hall on the ground floor, two galleries on first and second floor, with well ventilated windows and doorways.  The two towers supported the superstructure in the middle.  The Main hall is almost 250 feet containing the pedestal for worship in the church.  On the side wall individual prayer slots were created for saints.

In 1835 the Augustine Church was abandoned due to expulsion of the religious order from Goa and the Portuguese govt ordered its demolition.  In 1846 the main vault of the church collapsed after withstanding for more than 2 century.  The Church was now exposed to extreme humidity, rainfall and sunshine, it started decaying.  I suspect many of the laterite stone blocks must have been used for construction of other churches in the vicinity such as Mount Mary, Paul’s Chapel etc.

The bell from the tower was taken to Fort Aguada and later it was shifted to Immaculate Conception Church in Panjim in 1871.  The church interiors seems to have been decorated with stained glasses and plenty of inscriptions are found on the floor and the side panels of the church.

According to my understanding a great epidemic stuck Old Goa in 1759 in the form form of Plague and Malaria which forced the Capital to be shifted to Panjim with old Adil Shah’s Palace converted as residence of the Viceroy.

The proof of the pudding as they say is eating it and relishing.  Similarly my theory of abandonment is strengthened by the fact of ASI discovery plenty of skeletons in their salvage operation of the Augustine Church.  During the salvage operation one of the objective was to discover the body of Queen Katherine of Georgia.  The queen is supposed to have died as a martyr in 1624 and buried presumably in the St Augustine Church Complex.  This chance discovery of burial prompted a Georgrian team in 1998 to visit Goa to locate the body.  According to descriptions recorded in historical writings of the era, the queen is supposed to have buried either near the second wind near the main alter or near the south west side of the chapel. 

At first the northern side of the main alter, salvaging and recovery operations were carried out.  A huge quantity of human bones coupled with fragile skulls were discovered.  These bodies were obviously disposed in a hurried manner sparking of speculations and provoking interpretation.  Whether they were part of the persecution or inquisition victims or bodies of those who died in the plague.  It is possible all these victims were primarily from the epidemic of plague and malaria which struck in 1759.  The bodies seems to have been piled up and buried enemas’.    In the bargain the mortal remains of Queen Katherine seems to have mingled with the enmasse burial of victims who succumbed to plague.  The forensic team had to return empty handed in vain in their quest to identify the body of Queen Katherine. 

 

The Augustine Church was deserted in 1835 and for some time it was used as Charitable institution.  The building fell into neglect in due course, because of lack of revenue generation and its abandonment for mass and prayer due to mass burial of plague victims in the church complex.  After the collapse of the vault on 8^th September 1842,  the church was ordered to be demolished and artefacts were shifted to various churches, viceroys residence and fortress at Aguada. 

The Portuguese government auctioned off some of the valuable artefact collections to its citizens.  The facade and tower totally collapsed in 1931 with final collapse in 1938.  The huge foundation circular pillars can now be seen in the lawns of ASI Museum at Old Goa. 

ASI Salvage Operations :  After the liberation of Goa on 9^th Dec 1961, the monuments of Goa fell into hands of ASI which began its systematic cataloguing in 1964.  The speed of salvaging picked up pace in the 70’s.  When the world leaders arrived at CHOGM meet in 1982, its prominence was highlighted to the world.  The preparations for it to be designated as a world heritage monument began as part of entire complex of churches in old goa being selected for world heritage status in 1986. 

On war footing the efforts of salvage and recovery operations were undertaken by barricading the entire complex of St Augustine Church.  The southern belfry area was first focussed upon where ASI discovered the plan and architectural details of the bell tower.  Next area of focus for recovery was the alter which had floral and geometrical designs on the facade.  A huge quantity of debris was scientifically cleared with remains of ornamental tiles and octagonal pilasters were recovered.  The multi coloured Italian tiles, paintings, with a hint of gold was salvaged. 

Several gravestones were found with epitaphs in Portuguese, one of the tombstone is displayed with glass casing protecting the epitaphs currently.  The chapels seem to have been decorated with painted wooden panels which were once transfixed on sockets of the walls.  Some inscriptions containing the names of the benefactors were also salvaged.

The southern portion o the complex yielded fragments of ceremonial porcelain pots, iron spikes, cross etc.  Most of the floor slabs were found missing in this area, which may have been stolen for its antique value or probably vandalised by fortune hunters.  The remains of the L shaped corridor decorated with massive pillars were also salvaged. 

ASI was able to recover plenty of antiquities which were basically fragments of Chinese pottery, Iron clamps, Italian tiles, tomb stones, etc.  Some coins of Portuguese era, Inscriptions and slabs containing INRI, ceramicware from Europe etc were also recovered.  The scientific clearance of the convent adjoining the chapel revealed a partition wall with three enterances and a door leading to ante Chamber. 

ASI used scaffolding to reinforce the remaining portion of Augustine tower.  A systematic effort was made to retain its antiquity but at the same time to strengthen the tower from further collapse.  Water proof resins were used to bond the remaining portion of the tower.  Thus Augustine Tower complex is a tribute to the stupendous amount of salvage operations carried out by ASI.  The glory of the past is retained even though in ruins.

Epilogue :  This post was re-edited and posted in lieu of additional information sourced from the ASI catalogue on the world heritage series.  The old photograph is courtsey from Goan architecture blogspot.  This heritage is locale for many a dance sequence from Gumnam film onwards, Dil Chahta hai, etc.

Ack : Outlook Traveller Guide, ASI World Heritage Series Guide of Old Goa, Goan architecture blogspot and orginal contribution.