Resurrection of the Forgotton Empire

When Robert Sewell published his treatise A Forgotton Empire in 1900, little did he realise that Hampi would  be considered as a world Heritage site in 1986 ( first reprint of his edition was published ).  The revival of the heritage destination has been slow and calibrated under Hampi Heritage area management authority act 2002 ( 16/4/2003 ).  The biggest boost for the conservation efforts came from the Supreme court banning mining in this area.  We notice the rejuvenation of the terrain and return of greenary around the hillocks at Hospet.   I hope the ban on mines continue to maintain the ecology in the region and exports are banned and whatever mines are operated only for domestic consumption by NMDC only.  Who knows that we may end up discovering another diamond mine in future ?

On december 11th 2010 around 26 battery operated vehicles have been introduced to visit Vijaya Vittala temple.  The unique feature of this facility is that young girls are trained to drive the battery operated vehicle ferrying 14 persons at a cost of  Rs 20 per pax for a return journey of 4 Kms.  We were pleasantly surprised by this move, aimed at empowering women obviously.  The reasoning given to general public that this world heritage should be protected from vehicular pollution, vibration and over crowding.  Maybe a co-ordination is required to generate huge employment for the populace without crass commercialisation.  India has never so far benefited from employment generation facility through tourism.  This would be ideal pitch for the authorities concerned to extend touring of circuits vide battery operated vehicles.

Why i debunk the theory of  vehicular movements causing danger to the heritage monuments obviously with  safe distance maintained,  is primarily because the destruction unleashed by nature is much greater.  The natural earth movement, heavy rainfall, ageing of granites and intense sunshine causes its own destruction to the monuments.  The unregulated crowd management would be an issue in future, if it is not taken into consideration by the concerned.

The fury of the tungabhadra river harnessed by the construction of  TB dam at hospet to an extent has helped in preservation of the Hampi monuments by default.  This dam was inaugurated by Smt Indira Gandhi on 9th January 1967.

Another big step the government had initiated demolition drive of  shopping centres, guest houses, residence and eateries around Virupaksha temple. The construction of a new cable bridge across the Tungabhadra river was halted by the intervention of  UNESCO, who had conferred the world heritage status to Hampi.   The work started by Veerapa Moily govt in 1997 was almost completed when Junko Tanaguchi visited Hampi in 1999 and strongly recommended for removal of world heritage tag if the bridge is completed. Ironically the bridge collapsed on Jan 22nd 2009, wherein 8 workers lost their life.   It would have marred the beauty of  heritage site permanently.  Instead a strong navigation on Tungabhadra river through ferries and launches would be ideal means of transportation from Anegudi to Hampi.  It would boost further employment.

Yet another big move contemplated by the hampi heritage authority is to undertake sound and light show, it would mean that the general public would be able to visit Hampi heritage structures during night too during summer vacations, otherwise the temperature is unbearable to visit during day time.  We enquired with the organiser staff, who happens to be related kannada film actress Jayanti.  They mentioned that work will be completed before Jan 2012.

A slow and steady reconstruction of the fortress is the biggest feature of revamp of  Hampi, even though the entire 40 square Kms of the empire which lay in ruins after the battle of  Talikota in 1565.  This  place would have been converted to Islamic domain but for the strong resistance by the local populace.  The invaders migrated with wealth beyond imagination leaving behind destruction.  Some of the photographs are displayed in the Kamalapur musuem prior to salvage operations speaks volume on reconstruction effort too.

The key to complete transformation of  Hampi into a world class tourist destination would be ensuring a world class road network, which is complete upto Chitradurga on NH 4, but NH 13 is in a shoddy state of affairs with railway crossings being a death trap virtually.  A comprehensive network of  ferrying tourist on share taxi system would further boost employment.  The KSTDC conducts local site seeing from Hospet @ Rs 250 per pax which is discontined due to lack of tourists most of the times.  It virtually kills tourist interest, instead KSTDC can organise pool of  taxis at Rs 300 per pax on share taxi.  It would boost tourism employment opportunity and infrastructure at Hospet.

Overall i am sure with opening up of  Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal along with Bijapur circuits would add value to the tourist hub of  Hampi.   It would be ideal if the hampi authority would be able to recreate the ancient times with Palace of  Krishnadevaraya resurrected, with water channels rejuvenated and diamond market revived with cutting and polishing centres and ethnic showrooms selling jewellery.  The lingering taste of  food savoured from the basin of  Tungabhadra and photo shoot opportunity of  ancient diamond trading centre will always be luring me to visit Hampi.  Each time i end discovering something refreshing about this heritage site.

Hampi Diamond trading history

HOW DID HAMPI LOOSE IT DIAMOND TRADING CHARM? Many of us wonder if Hampi was the diamond trading capital how did it loose out on its primacy. My research took me to culling out information from various sources.

The diamond district in ancient times was located in the basin of Tungabhadra and Krishna rivers known as Raichur ( doab area ) The ancient rocky surface dating back to 3600 millions old was rich in precious stones such as gold and diamond. As early as 500 B.C, diamonds were discovered in deccan plateau.

Another interesting lesser known fact is that Indian diamonds were considered to best in the world from the ancient times. Kings were the main patronisers, who gave lease for diamond mining in Vijaynagar empire. Mining rights were given to nobles, under the condition that all diamonds above 34 carats will be surrendered to the king immediately as royalty. The monarch used to deploy spies and stooges in the mines to report discovery un-officially.

Van Linschoten, a Dutchman comments on Bisnagar ( Vijaynagar mis spelt) system of diamond lease, “ If anie man bee found that hideth anie such, he looses both life and goodes “ Forgotton Empire quote In this manner royalty ensured they had the possession of all the precious stone discovered, lesser carat diamonds were sold in the open market of Vijaynagar. The royalty used the diamonds for jewellery, rewarding loyal subjects, purchasing horses and weapons. Some of the finest diamonds were gifted to courtesans for their services rendered They adorned it as rings and necklaces depending on their patrons. It also ended the misery of courtesans, who committed suicide when they became old and unwanted. No wonder diamonds are classified as women’s best friend.

The Vijaynagar empire bought exclusive rights for trading in horses from the Portuguese after paying them a huge royalty. In turn for the finest horses and guns they gave them liberal trading terms on spices, sandalwood and precious stones. This helped the Vijaynagar ruler Krishnadevaraya to conquer most of the spice growing belt and trading harbours inorder to hold monopoly over all the produce exported from India.

Kohinoor diamond is fabled for its curse, was discovered in Golconda mines. It originally weighed more than 300 carats. It was later refined and cut to its present size of 240 carats. The british queen came to possess the prized jewel from East India company, who had in turn seized it from Maharaja of Patiala. Earlier Nadir used the turban trick exchange to take possession of Kohinoor “ meaning mountain of light”. Kohinoor has bought bad luck to all the men who possessed it in a gradual manner. Fable has it that only women can possess this diamond, without much adulation and grandeur. It should be worn occasionally, the british monarchy was aware of these facts. Only Queen Victoria & Elizabeth have lived long enough to escape its curse. The discovery of Brazilian diamonds changed the scenario in 1726. These diamonds were of slightly inferior variety, Portuguese traders bought it to GOA and started trading them in European markets as Indian diamonds. The discovery of Kimberly diamonds changed the equation in 1866. DE BEER’s cartelized diamond trading to reign in prices.

Battle of Talikota in 1565 totally destroyed the diamond trading centre of  Hampi, all the wealth accumulated was quickly disbursed to different parts of the country by the Vijaynagar emperor, rest of the wealth was plundered by the Bahamani sultans.  Unfortunately India lost the glory of trading diamonds and precious stones to foreign countries particularly Belgium and South Africa.

The EAST INDIA COMPANY, started systematically taking possession of all the treasures by paying some royalty to the earstwhile kings. In fact when Robert Clive was recalled from India as Governor General he remarked in his impeachment trial “ There was so much to take from India, I regret that I have taken so miniscule “ DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER, without the treasures Hampi still manages to attract, tourists from all over the globe for its grandeur. Maybe someday someone may still manage to discover the hidden treasures of HAMPI on the rocks. More and more tourists try to re-live the era of Vijaynagar empire by witnessing Hampi Utsav.

ACK : Picture from Cultured diamond & wedding diamonds