Coorgi Customs and Traditions

I have been regularly travelling length and breadth of coorg intensively during 1989 to 1991.  Of course it was on official mission, discharging my duties as sales executive, ensuring width and depth of distribution of biscuits among the retailers.  The landscape of coorg was dotted with coffee plantation, cardamon, aeracanut, pepper and many other natures offerings  I used to look forward for once in two months visit to this territory due to cool climate and their unique food offerings in the form of pork curry and puddings.  Sometimes we used to visit the buddhist camp in Bailkuppa where we used to thrive on momos and their noodles. Never i had an opportunity to witness a coorgi marriage, and when the opportunity presented itself on a golden platter through my ex colleague, i jumped into the fray and accepted his invite gleefully. 

  




Just imagine having a holiday in coorg and getting to attend a traditional coorgi wedding, nothing can get better than this.  I was hardly aware of the rich traditions of coorgis particularly their wedding.  My colleagues co-brothers marriage was fixed and he requested me to attend the wedding last May, and the weather turned from a summer to monsoon weather overnight.  It was as if the heavens too were in a mood to bless the newly married couple.




Generally the wedding is preceded by a common reception for the friends and relatives of the bridegroom and bride prior to the marriage ceremony.  It is generally a cocktail party with plenty of non vegetarian snacks and bites.  During this get together the menfolk and women dance in the traditional coorgi style, which is almost close to garba dance.  Children too join the fray and dance to beats played on sound system.  Some of the drunken members are controlled by the elders or friends so that they do not spoil the party for everyone.  I just happened to see an youngster going out of control and requested his friends to take him back to his residence so that he does not puke out.  




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The system of dowry is absent among coorgis, marriage expenses are equally shared between the boys and girls family.  Except that the girls family might deck their daughter with jewelleries according to their status.  Traditional attire is worn by men and women.  The men wear a black robe with a turban decked with a warrior type of sword or khukri.  The women wear traditional silk saree with plenty of jewellery.  

I landed just on the dot, at around 8.25pm,from Bangalore to Madikere, when some of the guests started their dinner, without drinks since they had to rush home.  I had to freshen up, took up a lodge right opp the wedding hall and had a good bath to refreshing weather, which started drizzling.  Next i straight away went and filled up glass with Blenders pride and went on to enjoy the cocktails with pork meat, chicken kabbabs and many other bites to savour.

CAUTION :


                                                                         Most of the Coorgis are allowed to carry guns without license, the only district in India probably enjoys this privilege, outsiders beware.  Never get into trouble because you may never live to tell your side of the story. 



Once the engagement is fixed 
the girls family is free to call of the marriage if they have second thoughts, than they have to face the music of the community if they are not justified in their decision.

Most of the close relatives are dressed in tradition warrior suits, which consists of dagger.  The dagger comes in various shapes, khukri type, mostly chistled in silver.  The women folk dress in sari which is uniquely draped on them.  The youngsters fall at the feet of their elders seeking blessings galore.

Next day the ceremony begins with breakfast and than the cutting of banana plant trunk with a help of a sword.  Most of the male members participate along with women folk.  This ceremony is carried out by the elders, with no specialised priest called for the occasion.  Later during the marriage ceremony a bidding sort of arguement takes place which is fun to watch.  The marriage ceremony by itself is very simple and quick. 

During the reception a cake is cut and distributed among the relatives.  The reception is attended by select few who are close to the bride and grooms family.  The crowd is comparatively limited.

                                                      Breakfast, is served with plenty of  sweat meats, lunch is served with plenty of non veg, a mix of mutton, chicken and pork along with fish kumra is served in buffet fashion.  Just imagine the lavish affair can cost as much as 3 lakhs for a wedding.  Further booze and hall etc would account for another lakh.  In all a decent coorgi marriage would mean a minimum expense of 4 lakhs, 2 lakhs each.

The estimation of number of guests may go haywire, coorgis invariably tend to order for more guest, in our case it was for 1800 but only 1300 turned up, due to inclement weather.






  

The best part of the traditional is revealed in the end with a custom of the bride carrying the ganga water towards the mantap, she is prevented by the boys family dancing in front.  So she has to take a slow and caliberated step making sure that she does not spill the water from the container.  It is a slow trudge towards the mantap, it can take from 3 hours to 10 hours depending on the boys family.  Here our bride had to endure the ceremony for 3 and half hour.  Later the ceremony ended with plenty of cocktails and dinner, along with cake cutting ceremony. I enjoyed my Bacardi with passion fruit cocktail. Long live coorgi tradition.  Do not miss a chance if you are invited for a coorgi wedding, even if you are a vegetarian, you won t be disappointed.  The custom and tradition is so unique that one is bound see time fly past and the ceremony is etched in our memory.

NATURE AND WILDLIFE TRAIL IN COORG

Coorg or Kodagu is famous for the coffee estates along with Pandi Curry ( pork ) as their prime cuisine. The terrain is blessed with excellent nature trail and wildlife. The entire district border Kerala and Tamil Nadu is filled with forest cover ranging from 200 to 300 kms. Three main forest ranges in Kodagu are well maintained by the forest department. They are Nagarhole, Dubbare and Nisargadhama.

Nargarhole :

One of the oldest reserve forest in India from the time Wodeyars is well preserved despite wild fire almost 2 decades ago. The forests are under the govt. control in order to prevent de-forestation with lot of tribal people relocated outside the forest limits. The conservation of wild life has been of prime importance which have been realized by all the 3 governments. In the bargain it is fetching the departments revenue. Luckily the forest guest house does not have accommodation to house many a individuals or tourists. Many of the forests are close to main towns such as Mysore, Mercara, Kalpeta, Virajpet, etc. Elephants and Deers are found in plenty in Nagarhole forest.

Safari :

There are routine safaris conducted by the forest department in the early morning and in the evening. This is basically because of the fact that the animals are up and early for catching their prey and quenching their thirst. They are used to nature’s cycle of sunrise and sunset. Normally they rest in the noon except maybe during the summer months when they roam around for prey. The safaris are under conducted @ 7 am upto 9 am and in the evening around 4.30 pm. The safari costs Rs 100 per head approx in a mini bus, or jeeps can be hired according to budget.

The spotting of wild life during safari is a matter of luck, because we humans are uninvited guest into their domain. Invariably one can spot plenty of deers, which are used as prey to lure the tigers and cheetahs. Deers feel safe in the umbrella of human habitation. During winter season they are more prone to be seen around the accommodation in lieu of deer taking shelter near the human habitation. There is a lurking danger of venturing out while staying in forest guest house due to this fact.

Nagarhole forest is home to Tigers, Cheetah, Bison, Wild Elephant, Boars, Peahen, Peacocks, Mongoose, Pythons, Cobra, etc. A variety of bird species home in on the reserve forest. The roads are barred for motor cycle and other open form of transportation. Unlike ooty route, here the heavy truck movements too are banned. In fact the forest is closed to road traffic after 5 pm.



There are three different areas Nagarhole, Kanhala and Murkal elephant training camp. Dubbare training camp too forms a part of the reserve forest along with Nisargadhama. The main trekking spot is the Bramhagiri hills. It is outside the forest range located near Iruppu falls which 15 kms away from the Nagarhole forest. There are other trekking camps organized by youth hostel too near Mercara.

ACCOMODATION :

There are various options for accommodation depending on individual affordability. One can find private accommodation in Kings County which is luxury personified after the forest gate. There are plenty of home stay options in Kutta and Srimangala on the other side of the exiting Nagarhole Forest. Accomodation can range from Rs 500 to 5000 per day with various package thrown in .

LOCATION : Nagarhole is approximately 205 Kms from Bangalore. One can bypass Mysore city by traveling through the bypass or ring road or pass through the city or take a detour from Ranganthitu Bird sanctuary and join the BM road at Hunsur take a detour inside the town and get to Nagarhole forest. One can have a detour to tibetian camp



DUBARE ELEPHANT TRAINING CAMP :

Across the cauvery river Dubare training camp is located. The elephants for the world famous Dusherra festivity are trained mainly in this camp. Earlier 150 odd elephant training was undertaken for logging the wood slaughtered from the forest. Since the establishment of the reserve forest, felling of trees have been discontinued. The mahouts and elephants are now deployed for giving ride to the tourists visiting the camp and ensure participation in their lifestyle for a day.

Dubare training camp is utilized for trapping the wild elephants and training them along with trained animals. The elephant is captured in a typical hunting fashion with traps laid. They are chained and bought to the breeding point where they are fed with sugar canes and raggi balls cooked at the camp.




JUNGLE LODGES & RESORTS :

This is a premium product from the forest department established with an objective to provide an ideal experience for tourists interested in eco-tourism and wild life safari. This was established in 1980 and has spread its wings in a slow steady manner for want of logistic spread. Now under the franchisee route the concept is slowly catching up.

The safari ride is undertaken though jeep only for the residents of the jungle lodge. The cost per pax is Rs 2400 which will obviously mean Rs 4800/- for a couple. Day time package would cost Rs 700 per pax.   The cottages are well furnished and laid out on the banks of river cauvery, with power back up facility. There are hammocks laid out for looking into the treetops and feeling the noise of gushing river. The package includes 12 am to 11 am food along with safari ride, boat ride and detailing by the naturalist.

Motto of Jungle Lodge Resorts :

• Submit to Nature
• Be ecologically Sensitive
• Bring tourists closer to nature
• Support tribal & local community
• Create ambassadors for conservation


Some of the interesting facts regarding Elephants are :

• Elephants trunks can bear the weight of an elephant itself.
• Elephants can cry, communicate, be playful and even laugh.
• Elephants are sensitive in nature, take care of their infants like humans.
• Elephants express happiness on return of their clan after a break.
• Elephants grieve loss of infant or still born.
• Elephants don t drink with tusks, but use them to siphon water into their mouth.
• Elephants conceive upto the age of 50 or more.
• Elephants recycle food upto 80% which is returned to soil as manure, which can be used to enrich the soil.
• Elephants help in pollination and distribute small reptiles for maintaining eco system
• Elephants can be trained to carry out certain commands for example logging,Climbing, marching on, hunting expedition, etc.


Budget travelers :

There is a motor boat which is used for transporting the tourists across the river @ Rs 25 per head. If one is adventurous, one can walk across the river splashing the water. One needs to be cautious not to slip amidst slippery rocky terrain. There are some crocs investing this river and one is taken for a ride in rafting boat and through motor boat. The boat ride can cost from Rs 50 to Rs 100 per pax depending on the time consumed.

An entry ticket of Rs 20/- pax is charged for the tourists for entering the elephant camp. There are various elephant oriented activities which are charged accordingly. An elephant ride is charged at Rs 50/-, Bathing the elephants, Feeding the elephants, etc are all activities associated with elephants.

One more package is offered from JLRL which is day package @ Rs 700 per pax and Rs 350 per pax, which can be availed minus the cottage for those backpackers.

The splendour of nature with sky, water, and greenery with animals complete the package. No wonder Coorg is proudly proclaimed as Scotland of the East.

NISARGADHAMA :

A bamboo forest replica is created at Nisargadhama. One has obtain an entry ticket of Rs 10 per pax to enter this premise. One enters into the tranquil place ( Nisarga Dhama ) walking on a cable bridge, replacing the rope bridge across the cauvery river. There is a handicraft shop, eateries at the enterance of this place. The one has to trudge towards the tree top, visit the deer park, rabbit house and walk into the river bed. There are cottages available for those interested in experiencing the forest atmosphere. A double bedded cottage is charged @ Rs 650/-. Restaurant also serves food for the residents, otherwise they can visit the nearby town Kushalnagar for their food. It will be an opportunity to try the corgi cusine.

The river bed is quite a spot to visit in Nisargadhama. The water is pure and so tasty one is tempted to quench their thirst throwing the caution to the winds. One can experience the hunting virtually perching on the treetops. There is swing laid out for flaying across. Bamboo huts and seating space is created for a unique experience. An elephant boarding point is also created for tourists inclined to take a ride.

COORG PRODUCE and CUISINE :

The local produce of coorg is coffee, cardamom, orange, pepper and honey.

Chilly pork : Ribbed pork is a delicacy prepared in the corgi masala.

Kadambattu or Rice dumpling : It is eaten with chicken curry or veg dish

Bamboo shoot curry : Another specialty from coorg



Overall all the three destinations give varying degree of experience to nature lovers. For food lovers corgi cuisine will be altogether a different experience. A two day trip would be ideal to experience nature at its best. Looking for a break from the high decibel city life, away from pollution, head for coorg and witness the nature at its best amidst the coffee estates.